1. The best way to acclimate a new kitten to your home is to choose a bathroom or a small area where there is nowhere for her to hide and put her food & water and litter in there.
Leave her in this small place for a few days. Take her out as often as you wish but keep her on your lap and pet her. When you cannot hold her put her back in her safe place. Once you are sure she is eating & drinking & using the litter box correctly and allowing you to give her affection then you can slowly open her up to the rest of the house. It can take up to a week for kittens to get over the stress of the flight and start settling in.
2. Gradually let him explore the rest of his new home.
We have a variety of litter boxes scattered throughout our home so that they are never that far away from relief, particularly for kittens that, like little children, can get distracted playing.
3. Introduce the other pets in the household gradually.
Ragdolls typically are fearless and love everyone so this is as much for the current household as it is for the new one. We have a variety of security doors in our house that are mesh so they can get to know each other, sniff noses, and the like with the safety of a barrier between them. Again, your Raggie is an individual and may just take over upon arrival. It happens often. Your older cat can take 2-4 weeks to accept a new kitten this is normal cat behavior they will eventually fully accept the kitten but it takes time please be patient with your resident cat(s).
They love toys. I get many of their toys from either Amazon.com. They love anything with feathers and ordinary cat toy balls with a bell in them. They love fake mice. Don't ask me why but many of our kittens LOVE these mice but they periodically drown them in their water dish. Oh, and you can never have too many toys because they will all end up under your couch.
The problems with laser play: it’s not news that lasers are hazardous. Shining laser beams into eyes — from as well as humans can cause permanent eye damage. Equally as important is that lasers felines are only amusing to humans and not cats. Here's why.
People typically play with cats using laser pointers in a way that frustrates and teases cats. Laser players usually point and dance the beams randomly on the floors and walls for their cats to chase. Certain of a successful catch, they pounce only to find there is nothing under their paws. The bright red dot disappears, or it lingers on the wall or settles for an instant on a paw. Cats are left frustrated, without the opportunity to feel the tactile sensation of their hard-earned prey. Felines need to have the satisfaction of the hunt — to catch and feel their prey beneath their paws.
There are many other ways to play with your cat, like toys that dangle from small poles. Just be sure to not leave those such that your cat can get tangled in them while you are away.
Birdfeeder as cat entertainment. We've had ours up for over a year now and it is on a window that has a cat ledge. One with suction cups will hold up to bad weather, windperch-sized, and a multitude of birds. They are easy to fill and provide great entertainment for both your cats and you. No creatures are harmed (well, except maybe the egos of the cats that just can't get those fluttery creatures just inches away).
The safest way to take your furbaby out into the great outdoors is with a pet stroller.
5. Scratching posts
Buy a nice one there are many different types try a few different kinds or you can make your own if you like by wrapping sisal rope around a board, or one might come on your cat tree
6. Cat tree
Your kitten is very active. She needs the opportunity to scramble, scamper and generally be a happy, busy kitten. We highly recommend some kind of cat tree. Amazon has tons to choose from.
Your kitten will have grown up with Tofu Litter. You can get it from Amazon and there are lots of brands to choose from. However, we have learned that they very easily transitioned to normal clumping clay litter if that is entirely your choice (and your kitten, of course). We no longer use clumping litter because of its dust factor and its lack of biodegradability and baby kittens eat it. If you choose to use a different litter, first pour some over your old litter so the kitten gets used to the new litter.
8. Litter boxes
We use a flat pan litter box. It is easiest if you start with a typical flat litter box. When you are sure the kitten is using the litter pan properly you can start to introduce litter boxes with flaps or cubby hole entries. The most frightening for a kitten is the flap-style litter box so I do not recommend this type until the kitten is older, otherwise the kitten may be too scared to go through the flap and start using the floor for a litter box or some other obscure location, like your bed.
9. Cat food
We feed our kittens Instinct Grain Free Dry Food. We leave the dry food out (free feed) all the time and we give them wet food twice per day as well. You can leave dry food out but continue to feed wet twice a day. Some kittens do not realize dry food is food and will starve themselves to death. So we give a variety of dry and wet food to tickle every kitten's fancy.
You can find good quality wet food at Petco, Petsmart, and Tractor Supply, and surprisingly some of these brands are even at Walmart. Go to their website to find a local distributor or you can order it from Chewy.com. Any well-balanced food that is formulated for kittens will work. Ideally, if you will not be using our food then a gradual transition of a week or two would be the easiest for your little kitty. We recognize there are many different belief systems when it comes to what and how to feed your Ragdoll, including the argument of only feeding "raw". We suggest working with your veterinarians and follow their advice.
9. Nail trimming
While this isn't necessary, it keeps the kitty from getting her nails caught in fabric which can be painful to both the fabric and the kitten. When the kitten is quiet, we gently massage her feet (usually just the front) to get her use to being handled. Then we gently push the claw forward and use ordinary people's nail clippers to nip off the end being careful not to get too close to the quick. DO NOT declaw your cat it is very painful and unethical and they suffer for the rest of their lives!
We only recommend the core vaccines which are FVRCP & Rabies.
We DO NOT recommend
Vaccinations are a medical procedure and as with all medical procedures, there is risk involved. Vaccines are LIVE vaccines which means the cat is receiving the live viruses or live bacteria but in a slightly weakened form. Therefore the symptoms associated with the diseases of the virus or bacteria the cat is being vaccinated against can occur with an addition of an allergic reaction and even tumors at the injection sites. The viruses/bacteria are then shed in the cats' stool and saliva for up to 12 weeks so any unvaccinated cats that are around a vaccinated cat can be infected with the virus/bacteria and get the full-fledged disease. Pregnant cats and (kittens too young to be vaccinated) can get diseases from recently vaccinated cats. For this reason, vaccinated cats should always be quarantined away from other cats. Even drawing up vaccines in the presence of unvaccinated cats can send the viruses/bacteria airborne and infect them. Extreme caution should be used in the administration of vaccinations there are risks involved and it should not be taken lightly.
The most common reactions we have seen in Ragdolls include:
Please visit this website below for more in-depth information on vaccinations from Cornell University :
Feline herpesvirus (viral rhinotracheitis): This virus causes upper respiratory infection with fever, sneezing, eye and nasal discharge, conjunctivitis (inflammation of the inner eyelids and mucous membranes around the eyes), inflammation of the cornea (keratitis), and lethargy. Kittens have an increased risk of infection.
Calicivirus: This highly contagious and ubiquitous virus is one of the major causes of upper respiratory infection in cats. Affected cats may experience sneezing, eye and nasal discharge, conjunctivitis, lethargy, loss of appetite, sores on the gums and soft tissues of the oral cavity, and lameness. In some cases, affected kittens may develop pneumonia. In rare cases, a much more virulent strain of this virus can cause inflammation of the liver, intestines, pancreas, and cells that line the blood vessels. This severe form of calicivirus can be deadly in up to half of affected cats.
Rabies virus: This deadly viral infection most commonly spreads through bite wounds, but can also be transmitted to any mammal by exposure of an open wound to the saliva of an infected animal. Skunks, raccoons, coyotes, foxes, and bats are the most common wild carriers in North America. Humans are at risk of infection if bitten by an infected animal or if the saliva of an infected animal comes into contact with an open wound. Rabies is routinely fatal once symptoms develop.